Day 14: San Domingo to Belorado, 22.67km
Villages passed: Santo Domingo de la Calzada -(7km)- Grañón -(3.7km)-Redecilla del Camino -(1.7km to)-Castildelgado-(1.9km)-Viloria de rioja-(3.5km)-Villamayor del rio-(4.8km)-Belorado
(June 12, 2023)
Today, as I left the Albergue, I walked past some vibrant murals and soon arrived at a picturesque bridge. Leaving the town behind, I reunited with Rick and Elena in the serene countryside and continued our walk together. That morning, both Elena and I wore some purple wildflowers on our hair for charming photo, and I couldn't help but admire our appearance. Some how, the wildflowers makes me extra happy! Elena loved them too! Along the roadside, I encountered a variety of wildflowers, some of which I had seen before on the Camino. The landscapes transformed with each step, offering a palette of colors that felt like something out of a postcard.
On the way, we came across beautiful vegetation with large green leaves and white flowers. The roads were pleasantly uncrowded, with only occasional bikers passing by as we made our way.
We stopped for coffee break in Grañón.
Later we took another break in Redecilla del Camino where we briefly visited the post office and snapped some pictures with the pilgrim monument, a metal cutout symbolizing the Camino. Nearby, there was a charming water fountain where we refilled our bottles. Rick proudly showed me his custom-made water bottle, engraved with his name.
Redecilla del Camino marked our entry into Castilla y León along the Camino Francés and had historical significance as a stopping point for pilgrims in the 12th century. Two pilgrim hospices, one of them named San Lázaro, served weary travelers. The town's jewel was the Romanesque baptismal font in the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Calle, notable for its unique decorative theme which is detached from the usual motifs related to the Camino de Santiago and the influence of French Romanesque.
Leaving Redecilla, we continued through breathtaking landscapes, enhanced by the emerging sunlight, which made for even more picturesque photographs.
I continued my walk with Elena and Rick. At one point, when one of us needed to go pee two of us would be on the lookout. It was quite safe and easy since road were full of small bushes, and it was a relatively quiet day we did not encounter many pilgrims.
Shortly before reaching Castildelgado, I unexpectedly ran into my former Polish roommate Adam. We hadn't seen each other in days, and our reunion was a joyful one. We took a few selfies together before parting ways. Adam informed me that he planned to stay in Castildelgado.
Our next destination was Viloria de Rioja, purportedly the birthplace of Santo Domingo de la Calzada, commemorated by a statue in the town. Unfortunately, his house did not survive the passage of time, but but the font in which he was baptized remains in the church. We enjoyed our lunch at tables outside the church, sharing bread, boiled eggs, and oranges. Rick showed us the meticulously planned book he had created for this Camino journey, detailing each day's route, starting and ending points, maps, and accommodations. Their journey was well-organized, while I, on the other hand took each day as it came.
As we left Viloria de Rioja, the temperature rose, and exhaustion began to set in. I made the decision to stop at the next town, Villamayor del Rio, and encouraged Rick and Elena to continue without me. They pressed on with their journey, and I ventured ahead alone. However, upon arriving in Villamayor del Rio, I discovered it was a tiny town without any Albergues. I continued walking until I reached the next town, Belorado, where I checked into the first pilgrim's Albergue I came across.
Grañón-Of the two monasteries which once cared for pilgrims in Grañón, only a single altarpiece remains. It is in the Iglesia de San Juan, which also houses one of the towns albergues.
Redecilla-Redecilla is the first town in Castilla y León along the Camino Francés and was an important stop along the way during the 12th century, when two pilgrim hospices cared for pilgrims. One of them, San Lázaro, lends its name to the municipal albergue.
Castildelgado-Small town with little more than a church, an ermita, and a truck stop restaurant with a reputation for serving up some decent hot chocolate. The only albergue in town is also the first house you come to.
The town gets its name from the born-here Francisco Delgado López, before that it was known as Villa de Pun. Francisco served as the Bishop of both Jaén and Lugo and was one of the most respected Counter-Reformation theologians at the Council of Trent.
Useful reference website:
The Camino Francés in La Rioja | Camino de Santiago Apps and Maps (wisepilgrim.com)
