Nájera is located in the La Rioja region of northern Spain. Nestled in the picturesque Ebro River Valley, it boasts a rich heritage that traces its roots back to ancient times. Originally established by the Romans, it was known as "Naiara." In the 10th century, during the Middle Ages, Nájera rose to prominence as the capital of the Kingdom of Nájera-Pamplona, later merging with the Kingdom of Castile. Notably, Nájera holds a pivotal place along the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route.*
Upon arriving in Nájera, one immediately felt its unique charming character, with beautiful buildings lining the Ebro riverbanks. As I walked across the bridge, the town's unique blend of urban and rural elements became evident. It's a place where ancient and modern architecture coexist harmoniously. Local residents, elegantly dressed, enjoyed quality family time on the streets. My GPS guided me to the Albergue (Las Penas Hostel), about a 16-minute walk from the town's entrance. Although I briefly lost my way, the friendly locals assisted me in locating the Albergue.
Rita recommended this particular Albergue because of its tranquil location at the town's outskirts, away from the bustling center. Situated right at the trailhead of the Camino de Santiago, it placed us ahead of fellow pilgrims. I trusted Rita's judgment, considering her 23 years of experience with the Camino de Santiago.
The Albergue las Penas is very small but charming. The keeper initially assigned me to a very crowded room where I noticed that Rita had already arrived and settled in that room. It was a cramped space with four bunk beds, and the keeper assigned me to a top on one bunk. I expressed my discomfort with this arrangement, as the metal ladder was hard on my feet when climbing up. While he was busy checking in other guests, I took the initiative to explore upstairs and found two other empty rooms. I approached the front desk and asked the keeper if I could stay in one of the vacant rooms upstairs. The keeper, somewhat reluctantly, cleaned up one of the rooms and allowed me to stay there. Later on, Rita informed me that the keeper had complained about my request, commenting why I couldn't stay on the top bunk that I am not old people. And this is not the first time, the Albergue keeper send me to the top bunk for that reason.
After a refreshing shower and content in the serenity of my new room, I decided to venture into town for some food and a glass of wine. Stepping out of the Albergue, which was situated at the very end of the old town, I passed by some beautifully crafted metal cut out pilgrim statues where people can place their faces into the cut out to take photos. My journey led me to a charming small plaza adorned with outdoor seating.
It was there that I had the pleasure of meeting Tom, a young man from New York. As we savored tapas and wine, our conversation flowed delightfully. Tom, a recent graduate at 31 years old, was seizing the opportunity to embark on the Camino before commencing his new job.
Following our meal, we decided to explore the town together. Tom had been on the lookout for a larger comforter, as the one he had was too small, but regrettably, our quest was unsuccessful. Undeterred, we opted to pay a visit to the nearby Monastery of Santa Maria la Real before bidding each other farewell.
On my way back to the Albergue, I noticed a group of tourists having a great time, capturing memories with the metal cut-out pilgrim statues. As I walked by, they warmly invited me to join in their pictures, and I happily obliged, becoming a part of their joyful group photos. It was a delightful and spontaneous moment that added an extra layer of fun to my day.
Upon returning to the Albergue, I searched for Rita but couldn't find her in her room. Instead, I decided to explore the town near the water, capturing more photographs of its beauty. Eventually, I came across an outdoor seating area at a restaurant where I spotted Rick and Elena. I walked over to join them, and before long, Rita also found me. The four of us ended up sharing a table and enjoyed dinner together and talked about our day.
Return back to the Albergue for the night, I found a young French mother with a child arrived, and we shared the room, with one bed remaining unoccupied. The three of us retired to bed around 9:30 pm. The young French mother and her young daughter (about 5 years old). At night, we both had some coughing during the night, but it didn't seem to bother either of us, likely because we were all so tired.
Here are some photos I took in Najera:
*The Monastery of Santa María la Real was built in the 11th century, features a stunning Romanesque church and is known for its beautiful cloister with intricate carvings. The monastery also has a museum that displays religious artifacts and works of art.
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