19 Day 8 Walking Camino- from Estella to Los Arcos

Day 8: Estella to Los Arcos, 21 km

(June 6, 2023)

After being absent from the Camino for three days, it felt incredible to be back on the trail, walking once again. The city of Bilbao was filled with so much noise that it made me realize how much I missed the tranquility of the Camino.

This morning, as early as 6:30 am, all my roommates had left. I found myself alone in the room. I did some catch up on my journaling, before embarking on another interesting and eventful day.

As soon as I stepped out of Estella and into the countryside, we passed by an art shop along the way, and I couldn't resist stopping for a look.

Continuing my walk, the fields greeted us pilgrims with vibrant wildflowers. There were quite a few fellow travelers sharing the route. Soon, we arrived at a wine fountain that generously provided pilgrims with free wine year-round. Two Chinese women from Taiwan came prepared, filling up their empty water bottles. Unfortunately, I didn't have a spare bottle for wine, but they suggested I empty my water and fill it with wine. While I appreciated the idea, I decided to taste the wine with my hand and continued my walk, as I didn't want to drink while walking.

It was a busy day with many walkers and bikers, and at one scenic spot, I shared the view with a couple of Spanish bikers.

During a coffee break in one of the villages, I met a group of women from South America. One of the young women, traveling with her mother, asked me how it felt to walk the Camino alone. I replied that I enjoyed it very much and that I never truly felt alone. I always encountered people along the way and engaged in interesting conversations. She then inquired about my shoes, and I expressed my love for them. She mentioned that they were all wearing HOKA trail runners, which happened to be the same brand and model I had. She said she noticed my shoes right the way because she almost bought the same color as mine but thought it was too vibrant. I chuckled and said, "I like colorful shoes. They make me happy when I walk." I noticed then that all the ladies in her group were also wearing HOKA shoes.

Later on, as one of the women from the group walked by, I complimented the wildflower she had in her hair. To my surprise, she immediately took it off and insisted I wear it. From that day forward, I started picking wildflowers to wear on my hair each day on the Camino. You'll see many selfies of me with wildflowers in my hair. It made me feel beautiful.

During the same coffee stop, I also met a French couple whom I would encounter almost every day afterwards. They are looking for a table and I asked them to share mine.  So, they did. Since they didn't speak English and I didn't speak French, we simply exchanged smiles, waves, and the words "Buen Camino."

At another scenic point, I crossed paths with Nancy and April, two women from Taiwan. We walked together for a while, and both of them had a passion for photography. We took turns capturing fun photos of each other and selfies. They brought so much joy and laughter to the journey. At one point, Nancy noticed that my bag was loose, so she showed me how to adjust it to distribute the weight better. Immediately, I felt the difference, and my bag seemed much lighter!

It was a day with higher temperatures compared to the previous days, and shade was scarce. However, a gentle breeze somehow managed to keep us cool as we made our way to Los Arcos within a reasonable timeframe.

Finally, I arrived in Los Arcos and checked into the La Fuente Casa de Austria Hostel (a small hostel), ready to rest and prepare for the adventures that awaited me on the following day.

As I am browsing through the photos taken that day, I am enchanted by one of the most captivating scenes on this Camino. The expanse of open fields, adorned with beautiful grape vines and wineries we passed; the winding roads are gracefully adorned with abundant wildflowers, while the white clouds dance against a backdrop of endless blue sky. Each photo I come across feels like a perfectly crafted postcard, capturing the essence of this picturesque journey.

Wine tasting!

Stop for coffee

With Nancy and April

 a wildflower on my hair!

Arrived Las Arcos

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*Following direction on the Camino:

Pay attention to the photos I posted today:

Signs for walkers to follow on the Camino:  the metal posts adorned with the iconic shell on the metal posts on the sidewalk at the beginning of the path out of town; the painted shell on the side of a building, the yellow arrows that are painted on the ground as well as on walls and wooden boards. Along the roadside, observe the concrete posts displaying a yellow arrow and shell on a blue background; the blue plates featuring a walker symbol and a white arrow with the shell on the top. These are the indicators guiding us along the Camino. By faithfully following these signs, they lead us safely to our destination.  If it becomes necessary, ask the locals.  They helped me at times when I could not find my yellow arrows.

**To see my travel photos to San Sebastain and Bilbao, follow my blog at the following address:

See the World through my Travel Photos (seetheworldannieseye.blogspot.com)

18 Estella-Lizarra (continued)

Upon arriving at the official Albergue, I was greeted by its spacious layout spanning three levels and offering a generous capacity of 78 beds. I took a shower and took a brief nap. My bunk bed neighbor happened to be a Spanish biker from San Sebastian named Aitor. Given my upcoming plans to visit his city, I seized the opportunity to inquire about noteworthy sites and recommended places to explore. We ventured out together, embarking on a search for a grocery store while simultaneously taking in the town's picturesque sights.

Returning the store, Aitor and I strolled through the old town, taking some photos.  Upon arrived back to the Albergue, Aitor approached Jose, the friendly staff member at the front desk, seeking a wine opener. Jose suggested an unconventional combination: enjoying the wine mixed with Coca-Cola and ice.  We invited Jose and settled around the kitchen table, relishing the peculiar blend as we engaged in lively conversation. In the midst of our exchange, Jose shared his plans to visit some friends, fellow pilgrims, in San Sebastian the following day. Aitor promptly suggested that I go with Jose on this adventure, realizing it aligned with my own desire to visit San Sebastian. I agreed that it was a good idea.  Jose promptly provided instructions/website to purchase the bus ticket. Meanwhile, Aitor searched his phone for a suitable accommodation option in San Sebastian. Surprisingly, the same hotel that appeared more expensive on my English-language search appeared more affordable on Aitor's Spanish-language search. He kindly handed me his phone, enabling me to secure my hotel reservation swiftly. The events unfolded rapidly, I purchased my bus ticket and made hotel reservation all before dinner. 

Later in the evening, Aitor and I decided to have a "pilgrim's dinner" in town.

We walked across the bridge adjacent to our Albergue, ultimately settling in the vibrant ambiance of an outdoor dining area teeming with locals. To our pleasant surprise, a live bullfight was being broadcasted on a television screen. Engrossed in the fervor of the moment, we discovered that many locals had gathered, reveling in the spectacle together. As we enjoyed our meal, Aitor took the time to enlighten me about the intricacies of bullfighting. Although I understood approximately 70% of what he says in Spanish, I deciphered the remaining 30% based on context. Observing the bull on the TV screen, adorned with swords and bleeding, I found myself experiencing the raw reality of a genuine bullfight for the first time. The gravity of its cruelty became strikingly apparent. Aitor informed me that public opinion in Spain is divided, with approximately half of the population opposing this traditional sport while the other half remains in support of it.

Here are some photos taken in Estella old town on the day I first arrived and again upon my return back to Estella after taking a detour visiting San Sebastain and Bilbao.

With Aitor

Back to Estella again!

Re-united with Jose

Old town square

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*Estella, also known as Estella-Lizarra, is a historic town nestled in the Navarre region of northern Spain. Its origins can be traced back to 1090 when King Sancho Ramirez of Pamplona established it as a vital waypoint along the revered Way of St. James pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. With its abundance of Romanesque and Gothic architecture, Estella bears testimony to its medieval heritage.

The town's remarkable architectural legacy encompasses a wealth of well-preserved medieval buildings and structures. The historic center, in particular, is renowned for its captivating blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque styles.

**About Bullfighting in Spain:

Bullfighting, or "corrida de toros" in Spanish, is a traditional spectacle that has been a part of Spanish culture for centuries. It involves a confrontation between a bull and one or more bullfighters, also known as "matadors." The bullfight takes place in a large arena called a "plaza de toros" or bullring.

Whether bullfighting is considered a sport is a matter of perspective and debate. Supporters of bullfighting argue that it is a legitimate sport that requires skill, agility, and bravery from the matadors. They believe that it is a form of art, where the matador demonstrates their mastery of technique and their ability to engage in a ritualistic dance with the bull.

However, critics of bullfighting view it as a cruel and inhumane practice that causes unnecessary suffering to the animals involved. They argue that it cannot be considered a sport because the bull is systematically weakened and tormented throughout the fight, leading to its eventual death. Opponents of bullfighting advocate for its abolition on ethical grounds.

In recent years, there has been growing opposition to bullfighting, both within Spain and internationally. Some regions in Spain have banned or restricted bullfighting, while others continue to embrace it as an important cultural tradition. The controversy surrounding bullfighting reflects differing opinions on animal rights, cultural heritage, and the ethics of using animals for entertainment.