Day 13: Najera to Domingo de la Calzada, 21 km
(June 11, 2023)
As I began my day, leaving the Albergue and hitting the trail, I faced an immediately steep uphill climb. At the top of the hill, I met Rick and Elena. From that point on, the three of us walked together. Both of them were engaging conversationists with plenty of stories to tell.
On the way, we saw sheep and roses besides wildflowers. Soon, we arrived at a coffee shop and sat down for a cup of coffee together. While we were enjoying our coffee outdoors, it started to rain, and everyone quickly moved inside. At that moment, there were about 20 people, the most I had seen on the Camino.
After our coffee break, the rain continued, so we put on our ponchos and kept walking. This was the second time I had to use my poncho on the Camino. The road became muddy, and we spotted the young French mother struggling to push a stroller with her daughter inside it. Rick and Elena immediately rushed to help her, and soon, a couple of other walkers joined in. They managed to get the stroller out of the mud, and thankfully, the rain finally stopped. The sky, now adorned with clouds, added character to my photos. I captured many facets of the countryside and savored the moment.
Today, we experienced the most dramatic weather changes, from cloudy to rainy and then to bright, hot sunshine, all in a single day. The landscape we passed through also underwent significant transformations.
Finally, we arrived at Domingo de la Calzada, where the streets were adorned with flowers. We stumbled upon a parade and learned that it was a celebration of Corpus Christi. We had the chance to witness the parade and the festivities taking place in the little plaza.
Afterward, we checked into our Albergue, marking the end of a very interesting and eventful day.
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*Rick and Elena, the father and daughter I met two days ago. Unlike other days of mostly solitary walking, today I walked almost the entire day with both of them by my side, and I got to know them very well. As I write this post, I had texted Elena and inquired about her new life in college. She informed me that she had a great start to her journey to become a journalist. She mentioned to me that she still has the flowers I gave to wore on the Camino when we took photos together, she had pressed the wildflowers and keep it for memories.
I realized how much I had missed her and her father, and their captivating storytelling. Fortunately, I had taken many photos of them with those radiant smiles that will stay with me forever. Here are their stories:
Rick had walked this Camino 25 years ago and is a beloved physician in his community, sharing many heartwarming stories from his practice. Elena is 18 years old, just having finished high school, and is heading to college to study video journalism in the coming fall. This Camino walk is a special gift from her father as she embarks on this new chapter of her life.
Elena is an outgoing and excellent storyteller. She has an infectious enthusiasm for the world, wisdom beyond her years, and tirelessly telling me stories of herself, her hobbies, her family, and her siblings with immense pride.
Rick and his wife are both of Spanish descent and speak fluent Spanish. They are highly respected and loved in their community, raising four beautiful children who are well on their way to becoming successful adults. They truly embody a happy family that I envy.
Elena's mother is a middle school teacher who often takes underprivileged children under her care. Elena is the second of four children, with her older sister already in college studying to become a nurse. She also has two 15-year-old twin brothers, each with their own distinct personalities. As Elena shared many stories about them, I could feel her deep love for her siblings and her family.
Elena fell in love with sailing as a young girl during a summer camp and became a sailing instructor at the age of 16. She spoke about sailing with such passion, which was impressive for someone her age. On this trip, Elena made the decision not to bring her iPhone with her, earning my respect for her determination to disconnect from social media for the entire 30 days of the Camino. It's quite an achievement.
Rick shared stories about Saint James, the namesake of the Camino, which was a first for me. As I am writing about this day, I did some research about Saint James and included it in my stories below. Rick also shared fascinating stories from his experiences in the hospital where he practices medicine.
**Saint James and his relationship with Camino de Santiago:
Saint James, also known as Santiago or St. James the Greater, was one of the twelve apostles of Jesus Christ. He is considered to be the patron saint of Spain, and his connection with the Camino de Santiago, also known as the Way of St. James, is deeply rooted in Christian history and pilgrimage traditions.
According to Christian tradition, after the death of Jesus, Saint James traveled to the Iberian Peninsula to spread the teachings of Christianity. However, he faced significant challenges in his mission. According to legend, while preaching in Spain, James grew discouraged due to the lack of success in converting people to Christianity ( He converted 2 people in the period of 9 years!) As he prayed by the banks of the Ebro River, the Virgin Mary appeared to him on a pillar (known as the Virgen del Pilar), renewing his faith and giving him the encouragement to continue his efforts.
After returning to Jerusalem, Saint James was eventually martyred by King Herod Agrippa I in the year 44 AD. His remains were believed to have been miraculously transported back to Spain. According to legend, his body was carried by boat from Jaffa (modern-day Israel) to Galicia in northwest Spain, where it was buried in what is now Santiago de Compostela.
The tomb of Saint James in Santiago de Compostela quickly became a place of veneration and pilgrimage, drawing believers from across Europe. Over the centuries, the pilgrimage to the tomb of Saint James became one of the most important Christian pilgrimages, alongside those to Jerusalem and Rome. The Camino de Santiago refers to the network of routes leading to Santiago de Compostela, with the most famous and well-traveled route being the Camino Francés (French Way).
Pilgrims undertook the Camino de Santiago for various reasons: seeking spiritual enlightenment, penance, or simply embarking on a transformative journey. The pilgrimage reached its peak of popularity during the Middle Ages, attracting pilgrims from all walks of life. Along the Camino, a network of churches, monasteries, and hospices were established to provide assistance and accommodation to the pilgrims.
***Dominic de la Calzada, also known as Saint Dominic of Silos, was a Spanish Benedictine monk and a Christian saint. He was born in the 11th century in La Rioja, Spain. Dominic de la Calzada is best known for his work in the monastery of San Millán de la Cogolla, where he was a hermit and spent his life in religious devotion.
He is especially revered for his miracles and acts of kindness, including providing shelter to travelers and pilgrims. Dominic de la Calzada's reputation as a holy man and a miracle worker led to his eventual canonization as a saint in the Roman Catholic Church.
