Tuesday, September 19, 2023

29 Domingo de la Calzada

After watching the Corpus Christi celebration in the town upon our arrival in Domingo de la Calzada, we continued our walk and reached our hotel. Today, I stayed in a hotel that had been recommended by Rick. This marked the first time I had stayed in a hotel during my journey on the Camino de Santiago, providing a much-needed moment of peace and tranquility for a single night.

After checking in and taking a refreshing shower, I ventured into town for a light snack and a glass of wine, before returning to the hotel to rest briefly.

Around 6 pm, I set out once more to explore the town. It was during this time that I crossed paths with the French couple again at Plaza de Mayor. There, we shared warm embraces, exchanged kisses, and captured some photos together. I also had the pleasure of taking some photographs for them, which they greatly appreciated.

For dinner, I chose an outdoor table at a restaurant located at the heart of the plaza, joining two young Koreans. They informed me that they were not a couple but close friends walking the Camino together. The young woman spoke fluent English, while the young man had some proficiency. We engaged in a wonderful conversation throughout the meal.

As I made my way back to the hotel later in the evening, while passing through the town, I spotted Mark sitting outside a restaurant, sipping on a beer. I approached him to say hello, and it led to another glass of wine and a meaningful conversation. I had first met Mark two days prior when I asked him to take a photo of me, but we hadn't had the opportunity to chat. We had crossed paths again today on the road, marking our second encounter, and we decided to capture the moment with a selfie. We exchanged quick goodbyes, making this our third encounter. Both of us were delighted to have a genuine conversation this time.

Mark, an American who had recently lost his job, had chosen to embark on the Camino journey, with the full support of his wife and children. I was pleased to see him seize this opportunity to explore something different, which might have been challenging while holding down a full-time job.

Me with the French couple

Me with Mark 


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*Domingo de la Calzada is a town located in the La Rioja region of northern Spain. It is situated in the province of La Rioja, which is known for its picturesque landscapes, vineyards, and wine production. Here are some key details about Domingo de la Calzada:

Domingo de la Calzada has a rich history dating back to medieval times. It is named after Saint Dominic of the Causeway (Domingo de la Calzada in Spanish), a 12th-century Spanish saint known for his work in improving the infrastructure of the region, including the construction of bridges and roads. The town grew around a pilgrimage route known as the Camino de Santiago (Way of St. James), which passes through the area.

 The town is an important stop on the Camino de Santiago, a famous pilgrimage route that leads to the shrine of the apostle Saint James in Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. Pilgrims often visit the town to rest, receive assistance, and explore its historical sites.

Domingo de la Calzada is known for its historic architecture. One of its notable landmarks is the Cathedral of Saint Dominic, a Gothic-style church that houses the tomb of the town's namesake, Saint Dominic. The town also has a medieval bridge called the Puente de Santo Domingo, which spans the Oja River.

Like many Spanish towns, Domingo de la Calzada celebrates various festivals and events throughout the year. The Feast of Saint Dominic (Fiesta de Santo Domingo) is a significant celebration, typically held in May, where the town's patron saint is honored with religious processions and festivities.

Today, Domingo de la Calzada is a small but charming town with modern amenities and services for residents and visitors. It has restaurants, shops, and accommodations to cater to tourists and pilgrims.

**The "Hospedería Cisterciense" is a hotel located in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, situated in the historic center of Santo Domingo de la Calzada, making it a convenient option for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. 

The Hospedería Cisterciense typically offers standard hotel amenities, including comfortable rooms, common areas for guests, and services such as 24-hour reception, Wi-Fi access, and parking, among others.

***The highlight of the Domingo de la Calzada is the Catedral de Santo Domingo de la Calzada and its gothic henhouse.  Santo Domingo is buried there as well, fittingly, in the middle of the road. The only remaining tower (of the original three) is detached and is located across the street.  


Monday, September 11, 2023

28 Day 13 Walking Camino- from Najera to Domingo de la Calzada

Day 13: Najera to Domingo de la Calzada, 21 km

(June 11, 2023)

As I began my day, leaving the Albergue and hitting the trail, I faced an immediately steep uphill climb. At the top of the hill, I met Rick and Elena. From that point on, the three of us walked together. Both of them were engaging conversationists with plenty of stories to tell.

On the way, we saw sheep and roses besides wildflowers.  Soon, we arrived at a coffee shop and sat down for a cup of coffee together. While we were enjoying our coffee outdoors, it started to rain, and everyone quickly moved inside. At that moment, there were about 20 people, the most I had seen on the Camino.

After our coffee break, the rain continued, so we put on our ponchos and kept walking. This was the second time I had to use my poncho on the Camino. The road became muddy, and we spotted the young French mother struggling to push a stroller with her daughter inside it. Rick and Elena immediately rushed to help her, and soon, a couple of other walkers joined in. They managed to get the stroller out of the mud, and thankfully, the rain finally stopped. The sky, now adorned with clouds, added character to my photos. I captured many facets of the countryside and savored the moment.

Today, we experienced the most dramatic weather changes, from cloudy to rainy and then to bright, hot sunshine, all in a single day. The landscape we passed through also underwent significant transformations.

Finally, we arrived at Domingo de la Calzada, where the streets were adorned with flowers. We stumbled upon a parade and learned that it was a celebration of Corpus Christi. We had the chance to witness the parade and the festivities taking place in the little plaza.

Afterward, we checked into our Albergue, marking the end of a very interesting and eventful day.

Me with Rick and Elena




Me with Dominic de la Calzada***
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*Rick and Elena, the father and daughter I met two days ago. Unlike other days of mostly solitary walking, today I walked almost the entire day with both of them by my side, and I got to know them very well. As I write this post, I had texted Elena and inquired about her new life in college. She informed me that she had a great start to her journey to become a journalist. She mentioned to me that she still has the flowers I gave to wore on the Camino when we took photos together, she had pressed the wildflowers and keep it for memories.  

I realized how much I had missed her and her father, and their captivating storytelling. Fortunately, I had taken many photos of them with those radiant smiles that will stay with me forever.  Here are their stories:

Rick had walked this Camino 25 years ago and is a beloved physician in his community, sharing many heartwarming stories from his practice. Elena is 18 years old, just having finished high school, and is heading to college to study video journalism in the coming fall.  This Camino walk is a special gift from her father as she embarks on this new chapter of her life. 

Elena is an outgoing and excellent storyteller. She has an infectious enthusiasm for the world, wisdom beyond her years, and tirelessly telling me stories of herself, her hobbies, her family, and her siblings with immense pride.

Rick and his wife are both of Spanish descent and speak fluent Spanish. They are highly respected and loved in their community, raising four beautiful children who are well on their way to becoming successful adults. They truly embody a happy family that I envy.

Elena's mother is a middle school teacher who often takes underprivileged children under her care. Elena is the second of four children, with her older sister already in college studying to become a nurse. She also has two 15-year-old twin brothers, each with their own distinct personalities. As Elena shared many stories about them, I could feel her deep love for her siblings and her family.

Elena fell in love with sailing as a young girl during a summer camp and became a sailing instructor at the age of 16. She spoke about sailing with such passion, which was impressive for someone her age. On this trip, Elena made the decision not to bring her iPhone with her, earning my respect for her determination to disconnect from social media for the entire 30 days of the Camino. It's quite an achievement.

Rick shared stories about Saint James, the namesake of the Camino, which was a first for me. As I am writing about this day, I did some research about Saint James and included it in my stories below. Rick also shared fascinating stories from his experiences in the hospital where he practices medicine.

**Saint James and his relationship with Camino de Santiago:

Saint James, also known as Santiago or St. James the Greater, was one of the twelve apostles of Jesus Christ. He is considered to be the patron saint of Spain, and his connection with the Camino de Santiago, also known as the Way of St. James, is deeply rooted in Christian history and pilgrimage traditions.

According to Christian tradition, after the death of Jesus, Saint James traveled to the Iberian Peninsula to spread the teachings of Christianity. However, he faced significant challenges in his mission. According to legend, while preaching in Spain, James grew discouraged due to the lack of success in converting people to Christianity ( He converted 2 people in the period of 9 years!) As he prayed by the banks of the Ebro River, the Virgin Mary appeared to him on a pillar (known as the Virgen del Pilar), renewing his faith and giving him the encouragement to continue his efforts.

After returning to Jerusalem, Saint James was eventually martyred by King Herod Agrippa I in the year 44 AD. His remains were believed to have been miraculously transported back to Spain. According to legend, his body was carried by boat from Jaffa (modern-day Israel) to Galicia in northwest Spain, where it was buried in what is now Santiago de Compostela.

The tomb of Saint James in Santiago de Compostela quickly became a place of veneration and pilgrimage, drawing believers from across Europe. Over the centuries, the pilgrimage to the tomb of Saint James became one of the most important Christian pilgrimages, alongside those to Jerusalem and Rome. The Camino de Santiago refers to the network of routes leading to Santiago de Compostela, with the most famous and well-traveled route being the Camino Francés (French Way).

Pilgrims undertook the Camino de Santiago for various reasons: seeking spiritual enlightenment, penance, or simply embarking on a transformative journey. The pilgrimage reached its peak of popularity during the Middle Ages, attracting pilgrims from all walks of life. Along the Camino, a network of churches, monasteries, and hospices were established to provide assistance and accommodation to the pilgrims.

***Dominic de la Calzada, also known as Saint Dominic of Silos, was a Spanish Benedictine monk and a Christian saint. He was born in the 11th century in La Rioja, Spain. Dominic de la Calzada is best known for his work in the monastery of San Millán de la Cogolla, where he was a hermit and spent his life in religious devotion.

He is especially revered for his miracles and acts of kindness, including providing shelter to travelers and pilgrims. Dominic de la Calzada's reputation as a holy man and a miracle worker led to his eventual canonization as a saint in the Roman Catholic Church.