10 Day 3 Walking Camino - from Roncesvalles to Zubiri

 Day 3: Roncesvalles to Zubiri - 22 km

May 29, 2023 

In the morning preparing to leave Monastery, I made my way to the designated shoe storage area to retrieve my walking shoes. Each Alberge had specific places where we could store our shoes, and only sandals were allowed to be worn on the premises. As I was preparing to leave, one of the staff members kindly showed me the correct way to wear my backpack. Before leaving, we took a photo together with two staff members guiding us as we exited the monastery.  After bidding them farewell, we set off on our journey.

Unlike the previous two days, today's route was bustling with numerous walkers along the road. The walk itself was much longer compared to the previous days. The terrain also underwent a notable change, transitioning from shaded woodland paths to vast open fields showcasing the beautiful Spanish countryside. We had the opportunity to observe how horses and cows lived in the area. The trail itself transformed from smooth dirt paths to the last 5 km rough, rocky downhill sections. Along the way, we passed through several small villages, one of them being Auritz/Burguete, which featured a house that Hemingway had once visited and stayed in. The house was marked with a sign, ensuring that it wouldn't be missed (refer to my notes at the end of the post).

During rest stops along the way, Lilian and I met a couple of other walkers and even took a couple of photos with them. One pair was a mother-daughter duo from Georgia, USA, and the other was a couple from Taiwan whom we had shared dinner with the previous night. During our dinner conversation, Lilian had wondered if they were Chinese but never asked directly. So, when I spotted them on the route today, I approached them and asked if they spoke Chinese. To my delight, they confirmed that they did and informed me that they were from Taiwan.  

Today we did not share our walking with cars. The overall downhill profile of the route made the walking somewhat easier, but it was a long-distance day, upon reaching Zubiri, I couldn't help but feel very exhausted.

With two Monastery Volunteers

                                                                    The Monastery:

                                                                The route we passed:

                                                                            Arrived Zubiri

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Auritz/Burguete, located in the region of Navarre, Spain, has a significant relationship with Ernest Hemingway. Hemingway, known for his adventurous lifestyle and literary works, developed a strong connection with the town during his visits to the area.

Hemingway's connection with Auritz/Burguete primarily stems from his novel "The Sun Also Rises" (originally published in 1926). The book is partly based on Hemingway's own experiences in the region and features the town as a prominent setting. Auritz/Burguete is depicted in the novel as a stopping point for the characters on their way to the nearby Pyrenees Mountains.

During his visits to Auritz/Burguete, Hemingway stayed at the Hotel Burguete as show in my photo. The hotel, founded in 1876, became a popular destination for Hemingway enthusiasts and literary pilgrims. The establishment features a small museum dedicated to Hemingway and displays some artifacts related to his time in the region.

The surrounding landscape of Auritz/Burguete, with its picturesque countryside and mountainous scenery, captivated Hemingway. He was inspired by the natural beauty of the area and often engaged in outdoor activities such as fishing and hunting during his stays. Hemingway's love for the region is evident in his vivid descriptions of the landscape and the local culture in his writings.